My Boxster 2001 986 3.2S TIPTRONIC gone but not forgotten

I am revisiting an interesting project which was the restoration of my son's 2001 Porsche Boxster 3.2 S automatic, which had been standing outside, unused for about 7 years. The car was located on his drive 15 miles from my home address so I had to take my tools and travel to carry out the work on the drive.

On initial examination there was no brake fluid in the reservoir, Coolant level low and a flat battery.The engine oil level was o.k but I assume that the oil has deteriorated.

The tyres were all deflated

The rear perspex window is torn allowing rain into the cabin

All the brake discs and associated parts are not worn but very badly corroded and the rear wheels locked solid due to the handbrake being seized on

The alloy wheels and wheel nuts are in a poor condition.

The CDR 22 radio will not power up. 

The battery was examined and was found to have no acid and a broken case due to frost damage. The area was cleaned with a baking soda solution and a new battery was installed and connected to a battery maintainer. 

The air con. does not work. Condensors probably leaking.

The gear selector is set to park but the dash display indicates reverse. 

The fuel gauge is registering empty so 4 gallons of fresh fuel added.The dash display still shows empty.The sender in the fuel tank may be faulty see later.

The heated wing mirror light on the dash is permanently lit. 

The carpets are sodden and water streaming everywhere inside due to blocked drains allowing rainwater into the cabin

The car is located on the drive between two walls with very little space at the sides making it difficult to work on    

The first job was to top up the coolant then change the engine oil and oil filter.

The alloy oil drain plug hexagon had been rounded off in the past and had to be removed using an easyout. This was very tight! A new plug/ washer was fitted. 

The oil filter similarly was very tight and was removed using a Porsche filter removal tool. The oil filter and engine oil were changed. 

The engine was tried and started first time!!

All 4 wheels were stuck on the hubs and needed persuasion from a sledge hammer and wooden block to allow them to break free!! The tyres had perfect treads but the sidewalls were cracked so replacements needed.

To unlock the back drive wheels, the gear selector needed to be moved from the Park to Neutral position. This can only be achieved with the footbrake pressed and pressure established. Brake fluid was added and all four calipers bled using the one man eezibleed kit pressurised at 20 p.s.i from the spare tyre.. 

On applying brake pressue the brake fluid was seen to pour out from under the nearside rear.The plasic undertray hid the leak from view. This was removed and the leaking pipe was found.The corroded pipe was cut out and a new piece of pipe installed.Two more suspect areas will need to be replaced in the future!!. 

The brake fluid was replaced and the brakes bled again. Pressure was established with no more leaks. 

The gear selector could now be moved. The dash indicator now shows Park with the gear lever in the park position. 

The rear disc assembly contains a brake drum used exclusively for the handbrake and has a set of brake shoes and the usual spur adjuster

The rear calipers and pads are operated by the footbrake. 

The handbrake is jammed on and the drums will need to be removed somehow to fix the problem.

The calipers were set aside to allow the drum to be removed. Corrosion round the brake assembly . The drum was stuck on solid. The shoes appear to be locked onto the drum. The drum was removed using two M8 jacking screws and a 32 oz large rubber head mallet.The 2 shoe retaining springs were stretched during the removal and replacements fitted. Heavy corrosion inside the drum had made the shoes stick to the drum.

The disc and drum were cleaned up,new retaining springs fitted and the parking brake adjustment backed off. The assembly was cleaned, lubricated and reassembled  adjustment inside the cabin was inspected and not adjusted. 

The car had moved over to the left whilst jacking due to the uneven floor, making it impossible to work on the Nearside rear brake. A pair of 4 wheel braked trolleys were purchased to allow the car to be pushed to the right.These were brilliant. 

The seized brake hub on the other wheel was then removed using a different method in order to eliminate damage to the brake shoe retaining springs. The disc and drum surfaces were both cleaned up using a variety of tools attached to an electric drill. 

The assembly was refitted and the handbrake spur adjuster backed off and lubricated.I still feel that parts of the assembly will need to be replaced. 

The brake pads need to be replaced. 

The parking brake shoes look o.k. for the time being

Now that the parking brake has been freed off, it is time to see if the car will actually move when drive is selected. 

Tried to start the engine again and no joy at first until a liberal amount of Easystart was sprayed into the nearside air intake. The car appears to be trying to pull when drive was selected with low revs, but the tyres are almost flat and need to be inflated.The engine is hunting at tickover and the revs drop when the footbrake is operated. This is not an inlet manifold leak as starting later from cold the revs were stable

Burnt out my tyre inflation compressor blowing up the tyres, so purchased a replacement in order to complete the operation.........

Blew all tyres up to 40 p.s.i to try to reseal them on the wheel rims. This was not successful and further work is required here. Started the engine and selected drive. Was able to move back and forth a few inches but needed over 3000 revs. ATF (automatic transmision fluid) may need topping up or changing?

The power steering hydraulic fluid level needs to be checked but the softtop will need to be operated to get to this. Checked later and level o.k. The top will need to be cleaned a little before operating to prevent damage to the material.  

The engine is ticking over much smoother now 

Lubricated the gear shift mechanism on the side of the gearbox  with WD40 and gears now shiting and the gear selection indicating properly

Moved the car forward to allow maximum access at the sides. Still needs revs to move. Suspect ATF fluid level low in the gearbox. The alloy braces and undertray need removing to gain access to the drain plug. If this is opened with the car on level stands  about 3.5 L of fluid will drain out. This can be topped up through the filler (very rusty). Not sure if the filler will collapse when trying to undo the filler plug as it is badly corroded. If so a new sump will be required.

Started to clean mildew from the the softtop.

The rear plastic screen will need to be replaced due to damage. New screen sewn in later.

The interior has suffered from moisture ingress so started to clean the plastic parts. Windscreen wet inside will check if roof sealing in this area. The passenger side seat is in very poor condition and will need relacing. Carpet in front of and behind the driver seat very wet will have to check drains not blocked.The rear drain required the clamshell putting into the service position to gain access to the drain holes.  

Decided to remove the gearbox sump in order to check its condition then change the gearbox filter and top up the fluid. 

Removed the gearbox filler plug and undid all the undertray fastners except the front ones, which were too corroded. The  aluminium bars could not be removed because of this. Levered the tray down but still not enough clearance to allow access to the sump drain plug and fastners. I could see that the sump is very corroded and will need to be replaced at some stage.. so reconnected everything and changed my approach. 

Decided to top up the fluid throgh the fill plug to check how much was in the gearbox. Pumped in 3 pints and still not overflowing from the fill plug, so the level was definitely low. Started the engine and moved through the gears. The gearbox was responding fine now and the car was pulling away with low revs.. 

Torqued up the tray fastners and ran the engine to bring the gearbox oil up to temperature then added another pint of fluid. Still not overflowing? I then lowered the rear of the car to bring it level expecting oil to run out of the filler. It did not.

I have added 4 pints so the level must have been severely low. This should complete the gearbox oil change. 

Reason for oil loss not known at this stage.?? 

The steel brake pipe from under the bonnet to the flex house cleaned up ok. The fittings on the flex hose are rusty but the hose look o.k.  The steel pipe from the flex hose to the caliper is corroded and has been ordered . WD40 sprayed round rusty components including the shock absorber tubes    

all brake components were severely corroded  

The Front offside brake pipes - steel pipe to the  caliper need to be replaced. It is going to be difficult to remove the pipe from the caliper due to corrosion at the fitting.  

Rear nearside brakes.Discs have been cleaned up but ordered new discs as not sure if the originals would pass the MOT test. New steel pipe to the caliper ordered.

Had the steel caliper pipes replaced on all 4 wheels at my local garage.

very rusy brake discs all round 

disc cleaned up but not sure if ok for mot
 

Gearbox oil now topped up until overflowing the fill plug. 

Started to remove water from the driver side carpet

Winter is fast approaching so washed and dried the bodywork and fitted the cover to protect and waterproof the car. The battery was removed to store over Winter to prevent frost damage.  
 

Still pumping out water from the carpets....getting drier 

Started to work on the brakes and wheels in more detail the ides being to clean up the discs and pads and reuse them. 

Front nearside wheel removed and cleaned up.  

A leak test showed that the valve was leaking. New valve fitted, tyre reseated on the rim and rebalanced at Buckley tyres. Need to check the wheel nut dimensions and order new as the wobble washers are in a poor condition. Tyre overpressurised to 50 psi.to minimise flats whilst standing. 

Sucked more water out of the carpet.

Brought the rear Nearside wheel back to clean up and check for leaks.This wheel is in bad cosmetic condition so cleaned up and coated with waxoyl . Leaking valve replaced and tyre resealed at Buckley tyres.  Blown up to 50 psi and fitted back on.   

Removed front offside wheel - cleaned up and leaky valve replaced and tyre reseated on rim. Found suspension spring broken. This is a major problem! 

Two new springs ordered from Ebay. Wheel cleaned up, new valve fitted,waxoyled and pressurised to 50 p.s.i.

Rear offside wheel removed and cleaned up. 

Did not need the valve replacing as holding it's pressure. 

New set of wheel bolts fitted all round as many wobble washers were badly corroded. Fitted the best washers to the locking wheel bolts and cleaned up the bolts. 

Will gain access to the engine in the Spring and check the steering hydraulic fluid level. Will also change the air filter. 

New brake components arrived so started to strip rear offside brake components - spring clip in brake pad retaining rod rusted in. Took ages to remove. Brake pad retaining rod corroded tight in caliper. Partly extracted. Left soaked in penetrating fluid. Will complete next visit and remove pads for inspection and clean up..Completed next day and decided to fit new rotor and pads. Completed this then moved car over using the trolleys, to generate room to start working on the rear nearside brake assembly. 

Started to work on rear neaside brake assembly. The corroded retaining pin is a pig to remove again. Left soaking in Plusgas. 

Got it out, fitted a new disc and pads and completed the refurbish photo shows. 

Started to work on the front nearside brake assembly. 

Managed to remove the brake pad retaining pin with the help of a lump hammer and drift. 

The bottom caliper retaining bolt was extremely tight and the thread has picked up at the bottom. New bolts ordered.New bolts fitted and torqued up so the thread in wheel carrier is o.k..Secondhand carrier purchased to be replaced at a later date if felt necessary.

At the next visit after inspecting, decided to fit new discs and pads so ordered. 

Refitted the battery now the Winter is over and put a fresh gallon of fuel in the tank. Tried to start the engine but no joy. Will need "eezistart" spray next visit. 

Started to work on the front OS brake assembly. Left soaking in plusgas.

Completed the refurbishment

Tried to start the engine but the battery was flat. Disconnected the battery ready for charging next time. Will only connect it when necessary.

Left windows part open to allow moisture to evaporate as carpets still wet. 

Put the battery on charge and sucked more water out of the front carpets.

Tried to start the engine but fired up then died and would not restart so suspect no fuel.

Tried to open the roof but nothing moving. Needs investigation.

Suspect no fuel getting through. This could be due to faulty DME relay or fuel pump relay or fuel pump or blocked fuel filter. Realised that the fuel pump and level sender is located under the battery tray. The old battery split and lost acid. Hope it did not get under the tray. Will remove the tray and inspect the area underneath. 

Ordered new brake shoes for back brakes.Will fit with new caliper bolts also and adjust the handbrake at next visit.

Carried out more checks. Fuel pump relay energising when ignition turned on but could not hear the fuel pump operating.

Removed the fuel pump relay for testing. The blades were corroded. Cleaned the relay contacts and blades. Will check the pump motor fuse and try to start the engine again at next visit. If no joy the fuel pump will need investigation. 

Adjusted the nearside handbrake, fitted new caliper bolts and prepared for fitting new brake pads at next visit. This to be repeated on the offside brake assembly. 

Will fit battery maintainer to replace charger. 

All caliper bolts now renewed. 

NEW brake pads fitted on the rear and handbrake adjustment completed 

Tried to start the engine - fuel pump relay energising but engine not firing. 

Next stage is to remove the battery tray and check that 12v is arriving at the pump terminals. 

Ftted the battery maintainer and left the battery charging.

 Shorted across pump relay contacts and wire link getting warm so current flowing, but can't hear fuel pump running. Removed battery tray and checked pump motor    

resistance and level sender resistance. Connected 12v battery to fuel pump contacts. Drawing 4A but pump not running so assumed jammed. Fuel pump ordered.

Level sender unit removed to gain access to pump. This was ina poor condition so cleaned up and bench tested o.k. Suspect it had been stuck in the empty position. 

Pumped out most of the fuel to get at the pump.

Removed old pump. Tested the new pump before fitting. Fitted new pump and boxed everything up. Tried to start the engine and it fired up o.k . 

The fuel gauge appears to be working now.

All fuses removed from the fuse carrier in the driver side footwell, checked and cleaned up before refitting. Some were severely oxidised. New fuses on order.

Engine starts fine and tick over is smooth.The accelerator response was o.k here!!!!!! 

Tried to open soft top and no joy. Thinks top is already open so the microswitches need to be checked at some stage. 

Now ready to be transported to a more convenient location where I will have more room to work on the brake pipes etc. in preperation for a pre MOT check. 

Update - tried to move the car and no joy - found the transmission fluid had leaked out over the floordue to leaking  sump. 

Used sump cover ordered from New Mexico and 4L transmission fluid. 

Removed the sump undertray and ordered T27 Torq bit to unbolt the sump. 

Removed the sump and fitted a new filter. New stainless T27 cap head bolts and washers ordered as the originals were badly corroded or damaged on removal. 

Fitted new sump with new gasket and stainless bolts. Waxoiled the sump bottom.New sump filler plug so tight needed a 4 foot bar to get enough leverage to undo. Fitted the undertray and anti rollbar bolted back in place. Pumped transmission fluid in. Bit more needed for final level adjustment. Started the engine and gearbox now responding however new problem as no response from the accelerator pedal.

photo above shows the gearbox with the sump removed and a new filter and gasket installed 

Ready to be prepared for moving..... Wheel bolts tightened, tyre pressures  set, debris moved out of the way. Managed to move the car out of the drive at tickover speed to transporter as still no response from the accelerator pedal.  

Now in Farndon on my drive so more room to work on the car. 

New custom cover fitted to prevent rain ingress until rainwater leaks detected. Old cover was full of holes letting rain sit on the paintwork which now has bloom marks. Need to try to remove.Attempted but no joy so far. This is permanent damage and a respray is the only solution so I will live with it. 

Bought Durametric code reader.Faulty ultrasonic alarm unit diagnosed (short to ground). Spare unit fitted and alarm now working properly. 

Engine only firing on 5 cylinders..... Durametric showed cylinder No.2 misfiring. 

New plugs and ignition packs fitted all 6 cylinders and firing ok now. Coil packs and plugs were in a very poor condition. Pack 4 was a pain to remove the screws.Had to use easyout. Check engine light now cleared. 

Soft top control unit suspect and was operated manually until a spare was fitted. Opened the soft top and started to clean rubber seals with silicon grease and check for leaks. Had to frig it closed as not operating from the button. 

Battery discharging so left battery maintainer connected. investigation found radio draining the battery ( 0.5A ) so fuse removed.  Alternator not charging. New replacement fitted and serpentine drive belt also. What a job!  

Heated mirror led permanently lit.  Relay changed  and now o.k. 

car would not accelerate still so Throttle body potentiometers suspect so throttle body changed for spare unit. Was in very dirty condition.What a job to fit the hose back on the body. Accelerator still no response.Air filter changed was in very dirty condition.Fitted missing jubilee clip on air filter pipe. 

Still will not accelerate 

Checked brake pedal switch under dash to see if this is preventing acceleration. Disconnected and tried - engine accelerated briefly.This switch tested out o.k. 

Front seat removed to replace accelerator pedal pot as traces on Durametric very unstable. Note that the rear sponge carpet is still very wet but the floor panel is not rusting. 

Accelerator pot changed and acceleration now ok!  

Drivers Seat cleaned up and refitted. 

Passenger side seat needs replacing.Leather rotted away. 

New windscreen wiper blades fitted. 

IR Temperature gun ordered to read transmission box oil temp to enable level to be accurately set. Car can then be driven to alow gearbox to reset itself for smooth changes. 

Update -  alarm gone flaky remote not working and I closed the front lid. This will not open now and battery maintainer is locked in. 

Could not find emergency release cable on any side so had to remove the front bumper. Found cable on driver side front under the headlight and opened the bonnet manually. 

No way could this cable be accessed from under the wheel arch!!!!!!!!!! Rerouted to the towing bolt area. 

Passenger side front amber lens quadrant has water inside. Opened up and drained/sealed.

Connected battery directly to the bonnet release solenoid and bonnet opening  properly.Will have to find out why its not operating from the sill mounted switch which is routed through the alarm module under the passenger seat.. 

Disconnected the bonnet release microswitch and checked the switch operation with multimeter. Bonnet open, switch is closed. Bonnet closed, switch is open so working fine. 

Removed alarm module and cleaned up corroded output relay connection.Front bonnet release now working properly.Later failed again. 

Relaced the suspect convertible top relay with spare unit and remote central locking/alarm now working properly.see later 

Need to prepare to take for a for a pre MOT inspection

tilt alarm elecronic unit replaced with spare unit 

Will clean radiators before refitting bumper. Checked driver side and both radiators badly corroded need replacing in the Spring. Boxed up. Passenger side radiators in same poor condition - NEED REPLACING. Centre radiator needs replacing.. 

Got engine up to temperature so that thermostat opened and fed water into the radiators. Could see no leaks, so not desperate to replace at the moment..

Decided to box them back up and if pre MOT check is o.k and no major expensive problems found carry out this work in the Spring/Summer. 

Relaced the bumper cover. 

Could see rust under front plastic underside cover and securing clips missing. Opened up and 2 cross members very rusty. Was going to renew but 2 bolts rounded off so cleaned up and waxoyled. Relaced cover with new clips.Renewed these cross members at a later date 

Inspected shoch absorbers and the front bump stops are damaged on both sides and need replacing. The shock absorbers are in poor condition so 2 new ones and bump stops and dust shields ordered. I already have 2 new springs as the right one is broken so everything can be replaced in one go. 

 Renewed the cabin pollen filter.

Soft top opens and closes from button ok now 

Battery is draining 2 amps with fuse E1 in place - feed to radio and alarm electronics unit and instrument cluster. 

Left radio fuse out as drawing 500 mA  from battery. 

Later found that some of above drain due to faulty ignition switch. 

Found Rear boot light staying on so bulb removed temporarily. Found out that if either front or back boot opened both boot lights come on. It is designed to do this. so removed back boot lamp as I often leave front boot unlatched to connect battery maintainer. This will reduce the battery drain. 

The park selected  led in the instrument cluster is staying on permanently? This means that power is still on when the ignition key is out.

Ignition switch changed and this fault cleared.However the alarm and central locking don,t work now and the interior lights donsn't come on when the door is opened unless the ignition key is in. The faulty switch was keeping power on to these circuits somehow. 

There is a clicking noise behind the instrument cluster when the ignition key is removed but stops if the doors are locked 

Drver side vanity mirror light has lost the earth return so not switching on when visor flap opened. Passenger side ok but fitted replacements on both sides as both water damaged. 

Fuel gauge still shows empty again needs calibration or jammed float. Will check if float jammed as first step using multimeter to measure resistance change when arm altered.Stripped out and cleaned up sender. Level indication now working o.k

Took for MOT test 

Failed on broken front spring and various brake pipes corroded. 

Supplied 2 new springs, gaiters, bump stops, top mounts and shock absorbers for the front as both sides corroded.Fitted o.k but the top mounts were too small so originals fitted back. 2 new drop links also fitted. 

Supplied 4 brake pipes from calipers to flexible pipes. Fitted on each wheel and more corroded pipework also replaced.

ATF fluid topped up until overflowing from fill plug (with 35 centigrade temperature measured). Level now set properly. 

Ignition switch suspect- new electrical switch fitted. much smoother operation now. Due to the restricted working space had to purchase a special palm screwdriver to undo the 2 grub screws securing the old switch assembly.The park led in the instrument cluster now goes out when the key is removed but the emergency locking has stopped working and the interior lights don't come on when the door is opened unless the ignition is turned on. 

Front ofside cooling radiator sprung a leak so car not drivable.. Removed bumper cover again and decided to change all 5 radiators. All radiators changed.. 

AIR CON OK MANUALLY BUT THE TEMPERATURE MIXING VALVE MOTOR IS NOT WORKING due to cabin temperature sensor u/s found out later. 

Fuel gauge not reading. Stripped and cleaned sender again  and now reading o.k Bought tidy spare to fit if it fails again. 

Passenger seat replaced with scrapyard spare. 

ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGED

New rear screen ordered for fitting .New rear screen fitted 

Bought a cover for the roof to prevent water ingress. Works a treat.

Now passed the MOT test!!!! Driven back and the suspension is vastly improved.

Vibration at 70 mph from front tyres. Checked and balanced o.k but as 8 years old very stiff. Fitted 2 new tyres to the front and no vibration and front suspension now spot on. The rear tyres were cracking up so also renewed. 

Coolant radiator leaking so had all 3 replaced and the 2 air con condensors also.Small leak at front pipe needs future attention

Air con still not working cabin temperature sensor faulty. Replaced. Filter/dryer replaced also and system gassed up and now working o.k but compressor a bit noisy . Not cooling anymore due to lost gas. compressor suspect ? 

Intermittent wiper control not working. Electronic relay changed. Now o.k

Wing mirror adjust switch u/s. Replaced and now o.k

Battery drain 500 mA due to fuse B4 feeding engine compartment blower. Leaving fuse out unless driving so that I dont have to keep charging the battery. Looks like a cable fault as relay removed and fault still on. To save taking the fuse in and out removed the fuse and fed it from a spare fuse which only has power when the ignition is on. This has stopped the drain. 

Front bonnet electrical release still not working so wired in temporary switch to alarm control unit wiring so it can be opened from inside the car. 

The emergency locking does not work since the ignition switch change and the interior lights dont come on when the doors are opened unless the ignition switch is in. This points to the DME module has switched to power save transit mode. To get it into the handover mode needs the Porsche PST2 software selecting a special menu. The main dealer wants £120 for an hours diagnostic work to check this then payment to correct. I will put up with the inconvenience.See later 

Had the bonnet paintwork damage checked and cannot be corrected without a respray so will leave for now. 

Went to a great Porsche Club GB gathering at Llandudno in North Wales. More than 700 cars turned up

Photo's enclosed

Air con lost its refridgerant topped up with dye and lost again after about a week. Needs leak finding. Indie garage tried to switch from transit to handover mode. Made no diffence to interior light logic so not sure if it was actioned properly.

 Porsche meet at Llandudno 

 Fitted new additional front grills to prevent future radiator damage. 

Fitted all new fuses in the fuse box as originals a bit tatty

Bought a  uv torch and traced the air con leak to the joint in the pipes under the driver side rear wheel arch. Had the joint split and new o ring fitted. Seems to have cured the leak.  

Bought an air con leak test gauge and top up canister for future use. 

maf sensor corroded screws replaced

Had a knock from the front suspension found to be Chinese drop link fitted a few weeks ago. Quality replacement fitted under warranty. 

Took the car to the 1000 classic car rally at Cholmondeley Castle

Purchased a set of piercing probes to allow easier electrical faultfinding

Stone chips touched up

Had the coolant leak front passenger side attended to (new jubilee clip) and 2 corroded front suspension braces changed.The coolant leak is still present!! so took the oportunity to renew the fuel tank straps and have a go at the leak. Bought new hose and fitted but still leaking at the aluminium return pipe. Leak due to alloy pipe corroded I think so ordered Belzona liquid metal to repair the alloy pipe.. Repaired on still leaking so second hand pipe ordered.Eventually sealed the leak. 

 Failed mot due to flasher relay fault and brake pedal switch fault. Both replaced and passed.

Cleaned up rims on all 4 wheels ready to be sent for refurbish possibly..

Found out that if bonnet release frig switch is left energised the central locking and alarm are working in a fashion so working on a mod to the switch which will open the boot if operated one way and arm the alarm etc if operated the other way. Modified and installed 2 pushbuttons to do the job.

Found the back handbrake dragging so stripped them down and cleaned everything up before adjusting the handbrake properly. Now o.k

Noticed gear oil leak from diff so will check the level at some time later.Very difficult to gain access.Filler plug is locktighted in and would not undo. Managed to undo the plugs and filled with new oil.

Rattle from exhaust area due to loose heat shield on DS cat. NS heat shield is missing so probably not useful or necessary. Couple of exhaust clamps need replacing as missing or broken.New clamps fitted and the corroded cat heat shield removed. Fitted titanium heat wrap on the cat bodies.Works a treat to keep the boot cool.

Brush painted the brake calipers

Clayed the bodywork and polished

Corroded bolts on exhaust u tube joiner clamps removed with Dremmel and replaced with new stainless bolts to aid future exhaust change if required 

Not many things left to do now but found a split in the exhaust silecer box. .. 

Loosened off all the 11 self tapping screws in the rear bumper to aid removal for the exhaust repair. Great difficulty and several corroded screws replaced. Removed the back bumper and repaired the muffler with Belzona and aluminium wrap. No leaks for now touch wood.See later

front suspension braces renewed 

Broken fuel tank support strap hanging down. Replaced later

Loose misaligned spoiler. Drilled out pop rivets and tightened up loose allen bolt. Fitted plastic expanding rivets to allow easy removal in future. 

frig buttons for bonnet release and alarm temporarily installed 

This temporary box has now been removed

front passenger seat removed and alarm control module removed from situ dismanled and contacts cleaned. Refitted.

Temporary bonnet release box removed and a New button added to the centre console to enable the front bonnet to be opened. 

Numerous split found in the exhaust muffler repaired with Belzona and aluminium tape 

Lasted for 12 months then split again so new catback silencer fitted. What a job to strip the old muffler out.

Drumming noise when at speed related to wheel speed not engine revs.Did checks round all 4 wheels and not too happy about the drive shaft cv joints so ordered 2 used drive shafts complete.... Cleaned them up, cleaned old grease out of joints, regreased and fitted new boot clamps. Saved for future use. Noise found to be rear passenger side wheel bearing. Replaced and now quiet at speed. 

Hissing sound from brake booster - suspected leak so replacement ordered for fitting. Fitted replacement and now cured. 

Bought a set of refurbished split rim wheels. Fitted and sold on my corroded set. 

Installed new high flow K&N air filter elementand started to get a few maf sensor error codes. Eventually tracked down to dirty maf sensor. 

Had to fit paper filter back in and new MAF sensor to clear the faults. The oiled K&N filter is no good in this appliation so scrapped.

Decided to publish future updates on my Blog page as this is getting far too long. 

2 outer driveshaft boots replaced with split boot kit

Idler wheels and water pump replaced

Back light lenses  both replaced

Faulty ignition switch replaced again.